Best of San Francisco

Restaurants
Rosamunde
Zaytoun
Myriad
Prather Ranch Meat Company
The Hall
Coqueta
B44
Cafe Bastille
Maven
Mission Beach Cafe
Chow
Techo de Lolina
Starbelly
Italian Homemade Company
Oren’s Hummus Shop (Palo Alto)
Grove
Roam
Mac Daddy

Pizza
Mozzeria
Delfina
Golden Boy
Una Pizza Napoletana
Il Casaro

Indian/Pakistani Restaurants
Pakwan
Curry Up Now
Holy Kitchen
Little Delhi
Udupi Palace
Mehfil

Bars & Cafes
Dolores Park Cafe
20 Spot
Magnolia Brewing Company
Smuggler’s Cove
Sycamore
Two Sisters
Cafe Le Soleil
The Mill
Trouble
Cafe Flore
El Rio
St Vincent Tavern
Radio club havana
Latin American Club
Elixir
500 Club
Zeitgeist
Mission Pie
Cafe St Jorge
Vesuvio
Mario’s
La Vie
Artis Cafe
Atlas Cafe
Farley’s
Cafe La Vie
Pagan Idol

Bakeries
Thorough Bread & Pastry
Tartine
B. Patisserie
Devil’s Teeth Bakery
Schubert’s Bakery
Stella Pastry & Cafe
Batter
Brioche
Stella Pastry & Cafe
Victoria Pastry
Krispy Kreme (Daly City)
Chantal Guillon
Choux Bakery
Sift

Stores
826 Valencia
5 Star Chocolate Truffles
XOX Truffles
Flora Grubb Gardens
Krispy Kreme (Daly City)
Cinta Aveda Institute
Heath Ceramics (+Sausalito sale)

Views
Twin Peaks
Bernal Heights
Grizzly Peak (Berkeley)
Coit Tower

Places
Belden Place
V.C. Morris Gallery
Incline Gallery
Ferry Building (& Farmers Market)
Filbert steps
Calzone’s (people watching)
Cottage Row
Magnolia Gastropub

Bookstores
Dog Eared Books
Alexander Books
Green Apple Books
Books inc
Aardvark Books
City Lights
Christopher’s books
Folio Books
Mrs Dalloway

Miscellaneous
Off The Grid – Picnic in the Presidio
New Alamo Drafthouse Cinema
Castro Theater
Roxie

East Bay
Gregoire
Tigerlily
Elmwood District
Rockridge Market Hall

Pending
A16
Firebrand Bakery
Elite Cafe
Zanze
Belga
Fiorella
Del Popolo
Free Tours By Foot
San Francisco City Guides
E Tutto Qua
Delessio Market Bakery

 

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Best of Madrid

Walking Tour 1 — Opera, Latina, Huertas
Walking Tour 2 — Gran Via, Sol, Retiro (coming)
Walking Tour 3 — Conde Duque, Malasañna, Chueca (coming)

Top 3 restaurants
La Musa (fusion tapas)
Il Regno di Napoli (thin crust pizzas)
Cafeteria HD (burgers)

Bars, Cafes and Restaurants

Pez Baker
Afri’s cookies
Mür Cafe
Lata de Sardinas
Mama Framboise
Latita
Harina
Lateral
La Central (bookshop and cafe)
Il Cratere del Gusto
Gumbo
Maricastaña
Aio
Circo
Naïf
Cocina de mi vecina
Olive
Dionysos
Con 2 Fogones
Home Burger
La Rue
Baobab
Happy Day
Frutal
Cacao Sampaka
Roll
Cafe Federal
Crumb
Rey de Tallarines
Taqueria Mi Ciudad
Anticafe
La Mantequeria
Subiendo al Sur
Jardin Secreto
Oreio
Ojala
La cajita de Nori
La Taberna de Huertas
Estocolmo
Los Olvidados
Café Moderno
El Horno de Santos
Yokaloka
Toma Cafe
La Central

Markets
Mercado Il de Fonso
Mercado San Anton
Mercado San Miguel

Plazas
Plaza dos de Mayo
Plaza Comendadores + Calle Cristo + Plaza Guardias de Corps
Plaza Il San de Fonso
Plaza Mayor
Plaza Santa Ana
Puerta del Sol

Rooftop bars and views
Gau&Cafe
Corte Ingles Gourmet Experience Callao
Apartosuites Gambini bar
Parque de las 7 tetas / Cerro del Tío Pío

Shops
La Central

Best of Paris

Walking Tour
Tal’s Best of Paris Walking Tour
— on Google Maps

1. Shakespeare&Co
2. Notre Dame de Paris
3. Glaces Berthillon
4. Village St Paul
5. Place des Vosges
6. Rue des Rosiers
7. Centre Pompidou
8. Rue du Rivoli
9. Louvre
10. Pont St Neuf
11. Cour du Commerce St André des Arts
12. Boulevard St Germain
13. Institut du Monde Arabe terrace

* Obviously, go see Montmartre, l’Arc de Triomphe, Champs Elysées, the Eiffel Tower too.

Cafes & Food
Le Coquelicot
Les 2 Moulins
Glaces Berthillon
Ann’s Cookies
L’As du Falafel
Berko cupcakes
Le Boul’mich
Cafe Cosi
Creperie des Arts
Odette
Merci
La Jacobine
Le Relais Odeon
Un Dimanche a Paris
Cafe Poushkine
Cafe de la Gare
Cafe les Etages (St Germain)
Du Pain et des Idées
Le Relais Gascon
Botak Cafe*
Anticafe

Restaurants
La Panfoulia
Marcel (Indian)
Mama Shelter
Pink Flamingo
Grazie

Bars
Candelaria (hidden bar behind the tacos)
Sherry Butt

Sights
Village St Paul
Le Musée du Monde Arabe**
Pont de l’Archevêché***
Passage du Grand Cerf
Promenade Plantée / Coulée Verte

Hubs
Cours du Commerce St André
Ile St Louis
Place du Tertre
Canal St Martin
Place des Vosges
Rue de Montmartre / Montorgeuil
Place du Marché Sainte Catherine

Shops
Shakespeare & Co
La Cure Gourmande
Merci (expensive but cool store)
Fleux

* Order the Agua de Valencia
** Take the elevator up to the rooftop for a free view of the city.
*** Surprise your girlfriend by attaching a lock with your names to this bridge.

Best of Lisbon

Cafes / bars
Royale Cafe
Cruzes Credo
Pois, Café
Kaffeehaus
Vertigo Cafe
Noobai
Cafe Tati
Ler Devagar
Antiga Confeitaria de Belém
Pasteleria Alfama Doce
Bar da Velha Senhora
Pensão Amor
Pavilhao Chines

Restaurants
Cafe Buenos Aires
Cruzes Credo
To B. Burgers

Sights
Elevador da Bica
Hotel do Chiado*
Convento do Carmo
Santa Justa Lift
Praca do Comercio
Tram 28

Castelo de Sao Jorge
Padrao dos Descobrimentos (Belem)

Miradors
Miradouro das Portas do Sol
Miradouro de Gracia
Miradouro de Santa Luzia
Miradouro da Senhora do Monte

Hubs
LX Factory
Cais do Sobre

Shops
A vida Portuguesa
Livraria Betrand
Ler Devagar

Tours
We Hate Tourism**

* Go up to the top floor, walk left to the end of the hallway, you’ll find a terrace at the end to your right. Bring wine, a blanket, and enjoy the night view of Alfama and the castle for free.

** I normally stay miles away from tours. But these guys are insanely cool. Also, they will drive across Lisbon’s hills like madmen in a massive black military jeep.

Another day in the Summer of Antwerp

Antwerp is… just wow.

I know Europe sounds like a smorgasbord of Paris, Barcelona and London, but it is not.
Paris, and I should know, can not offer you… experiences. It offers sights, and moments of ‘oh my god I’m in Paris’, but you will always be mere spectator. Paris does not need you and it lets you know it, even as you’re stepping on your last metro to the airport, it will say ‘Attention a la marche’ mechanically for what is not not only the umpteenth time, but once more in an infinite series of times to come. Paris, in short, makes for great pictures of places half the planet has visited before you, and will do so long after you’re gone. (and Barcelona is really just a souvenir shop of tapas and… did I say tapas already?)

Antwerp, on the other hand, is made of you, and me, and it will call for your participation on a daily basis. Zomer van Antwerpen (Summer of Antwerp) does not lay out iron towers for you to wait in line and climb. It builds hippie communes in the woods right outside the centre, and says ‘Hey guys, we sort of patched together these hammocks, wooden platforms, benches and a bar out of re-used scrap. And, we thought you might be hungry too, so we’ve got this little volunteer kitchen going with world food at prices even your mom can’t compete with. And you know what would make it even cooler? If you’d bring some picnic cloth or wine or mainly, yourself and your friends’. And so we do. Every summer. We, heart-feltly cool people of Antwerp, show up to enjoy each other’s company. It just so happens the city of Antwerp built us a few circus tents and fireplaces and trade-as-you-wish book shelves.

The rest… is familiar.
Raph shows up at my door. I jump in his car. I throw his USB stick somewhere to the back of the car and plug in my iPhone. Today, Frightened Rabbits – The Modern Leper, so loud we couldn’t even hear ourselves honk. Park the car on the river side where every year, the Cirque du Soleil swings by for chocolate and giggles. We go into town.

We open random travel guides at random pages at the Fnac, and discuss the merits of Cuzco over Hanoi. We toy around with speakers on demo and comment a Philip Roth book or two. We’ll grab a sandwich at Panos and mention, for the 100th time, that we really should find an even cooler place to lunch, ever since the too-good-to-be-true Vapiano chain closed its Antwerp branch, for reasons beyond our comprehension; it was always packed with kindred souls.

We’ll walk down the antiquaries street and today, discovered an art gallery slash french cuisine slash limited fashion store slash music shop slash we’re-psyched-you-love-it-but-please,-no-pictures-locale. We nod in complicity and ambulate around the place in childlike wonder. Raph or I or both will shout across the store once more that Antwerp just doesn’t compare, and 8 minutes of hopping later, Raph will say ‘On bouge mec?’, and I’ll say ‘yep, let’s roll’, and onwards we go. Enter the Diesel store, even though even their armbands are beyond our budget and joke about how making you feel inferior is part of the clerk’s job description. We’ll still flip a price tag or two just to fuel our jokes. On and on, we’ll explore our own city in a non-stop mixture of familiarity and incomprehensible surprise. Either the walls move when we’re not looking, or this city is just alive in ways we can’t keep up with. Three stores later, Raph correctly points out we’re not in a buying mood at all, sales or no sales. I’ll say ‘okay sure, let’s hit Zomerbar, but first I need to get my glasses tended to’.

We’ll march over to Theo, the Belgian brand of glasses deluxe, where, though I didn’t buy mine at their store nor did the previous glassmaker fit my lenses particularly well into the frame (or so Theo’s friendly clerk will point out, with a sigh reserved for the love of craftsmanship and the pain of lack thereof) they will happily fix me up. The lady will first look at me, front and back, to determine just how well my glasses currently fit me. Then she’ll remove them from my head (a sensory experience I only otherwise experience when a girl takes them off from me in bed), and head back behind the counter where she will minutiously proceed to shape them back to perfection like the gentlest of chiropractors. She will charge me nothing for it. Why would she. We’ve just collectively made the realm of designerly glasses a better place. It’s a win-win-win situation, an outcome embedded in the blueprint of this town’s psyche. On to the Zomerbar.

We’ll order fresh mint tee, then fancy the day’s penne dish with salmon sauce, then I’ll ask for a plate with just bread and humus, though neither figure on the day’s menu, and get charged ridiculously symbolic prices for it, then come back for a coconut lemongrass curry as I strike up a conversation with the guy that I mistook for last night’s guy, but no, apparently ‘tapas guy’ only comes in at 21.00.

Then back to the hammocks for more semi-siestas, in between hilarious statements (not unlike our facebook statuses) and barely audible music from my iPhone that I craftily got to hold steady on a randomly cut tree trunk. It is not a chair. It is not a table either. It is, along with the cushion-filled potatoe bag currently serving as a nearby kid’s toy, a something-something that the city of Antwerp and the organizers of Zomerbar must have considered ‘perhaps fun to have lying around’, for purposes later to be defined by the people of Antwerp themselves. In Paris, such potato bag would come labeled as ‘Ceci n’est pas fait pour s’asseoir dessus’, whereas in Antwerp, the chief commander of potato bag utilization is a 6 year old with endearing ADHD, otherwise referred to as ‘Kids who like to play extra long’ here where I grew up.

We’ll stay long enough to be part of the regular crowd, agree that the dreadlocked bartender is cute as fuck, comment once more that was makes this place truly magical, is the fact that people age 65 or 15 show up and find each other’s presence ‘cool’. And remember how last night, we stroke up a conversation with this 50-something teacher who overheard our french and toasted hers and her husband + friends couple mojitos to our youth, and how we wondered just how much of our outspoken sexual and depraved chat she just understood. Ponder that for a minute, then pick up the conversation again right where we left it, on the subject of male jealousy and the scenario’s in which breaking a barstool on somebody’s back is a respectful act of communication, really. Then too, we might feel like moving ventures, and at my request, Raph will scout the internet on his blackberry (which I christened ‘the fat poo of a nigger’ for its black ugliness), and conclude that there doesn’t seem to be much playing at the cinemas tonight. But we’re in doubt.

And we do feel like being entertained. So we’ll drive right back up in the car and drive home so he could grab his macbook so we could go online so we could watch trailers of movies to watch. 20 minutes later, all in his car, Natasha, we’ll watch an episode of The Office, the one where Dwight gives a Mussolini-like speech to an audience of salesmen. Then we’ll lie comatose in his car some more, to the soundtrack of Mumford and Sons. Then hunger will strike, and I’ll explain that I’m in dire need of Red Bulls (plural), because my last night’s experiment of sleeping in his car so as not to wake up my mom did not afford me much sleep (though fantastic dreams).

Another ten more minutes of comatose staring at the dashboard windows and we’ll make a snap decision. We should eat healthy, dismissing the Quick hamburger joint nearby. We used to hang there all the time, the perfect meeting point at walking distance from his and my house. Sometimes bring a guitar, sometimes just for girl talk. But hey, we’re hungry for healthy stuff, and it doesn’t take long to happily admit that, again, no one will better cater to our needs than the Zomerbar.

Drive back up there, park the car, walk inside, wait in line, get the evening’s dish, canteen style, join more strangers at a table, get called up by his parents, they’re here too, near the bar. Come by, say hi, they came with his little cousin, who Raph swears she’ll soon break hearts, and I think ‘wow, three generations at one table’. And as if to drive the point further, his father laughingly announces that Raph’s grandma, age 96, recently decided she’d like to find herself a new lover. (I am not making this up). Off we go. To the Dansing Chocolate, our favourite cafe.

We still haven’t seen the end of Knocked Up (the movie we started watching last night in his car until I dozed off and told him to just leave me on the backseat with his car’s keys, and we’ll meet again in the morning.) We show up at the cafe after I grabbed a Red Bull at the Pakistani shop and search for table nearby an electricity plug. Open up the MacBook, let Raph order a beer and start the movie again. Watch it some more until a deliriously hot girl enters the cafe. It is God’s obscene tease. Raph tires of the movie and I say ‘then let’s move cuz I’m cold at this table’ and sit ourselves down so that I could afford a better view. Another round of mint thee and we talk of women. Drinks were had. I saw panties. Had to drink my mint thee with my eyes covered so as not to stare. They left. We stayed some more. I’d accentuate the often hilarious punchlines we nailed by slamming my fist on the table. Then go get another handful of M&M’s from the counter. Off we go.

Back to the car. Another round of The Modern Leper, so loud… so good. We’re almost home. I quickly tune in The Killer’s – Read my mind. We arrive home but I insist Raph parks a bit further away so as not to make my dog bark as I segue into the When you were young. We shout the lyrics at the top of our lungs and agree to meet at 10 AM at the tram stop tomorrow morning. We’re taking the same train to Delft. He’s visiting Monique, my former accomplice in lingerie and sex talk, and now Raph’s. As for me… another day, another town. I’ve got stuff to do in every European country anyway. And I come online to find Gilberto on Gchat, my mexican hombre who got a grant to study in NYC. I’ll come visit. Right now, I need to sleep. It’s just another day Antwerp.

3.53 AM.

—Originally posted on Facebook on the 18th of July 2010

Tal’s latest longreads

How Google builds its maps—and what it means for the future of everything.
An exclusive look inside Ground Truth, the secretive program to build the world’s best accurate maps. (via Alberto Romero)
http://www.theatlantic.com/technology/archive/2012/09/how-google-builds-its-maps-and-what-it-means-for-the-future-of-everything/261913/

How Apple and Amazon security flaws led to my epic hacking
A writer loses everything on his iPhone, his iPad and his Mac—including all of the photos from the first year and a half of his daughter’s life—after a hacker infiltrates his Amazon, Apple, Gmail and Twitter accounts.
http://www.wired.com/gadgetlab/2012/08/apple-amazon-mat-honan-hacking/all/?src=longreads

A man walks into a bank
Patrick Combs deposits a junk-mail cheque for $95,000 – for a joke. The bank actually cashes it.
http://www.ft.com/cms/s/2/93a47a62-daf0-11e1-8074-00144feab49a.html#axzz282Y2SOdW

Global copycats: the sincerest form of flattery
A profile of Oliver Samwer and his web copycat factory in Berlin, which specializes in building knockoff websites inspired by growing American startups—then, sometimes, selling them back to the original company
http://www.inc.com/magazine/201206/max-chafkin/oliver-samwer-european-king-of-the-company-cloners.html

What’s so bad about a boy who wants to wear a dress?
On gender-variant kids, and their parents.
http://www.nytimes.com/2012/08/12/magazine/whats-so-bad-about-a-boy-who-wants-to-wear-a-dress.html?_r=3&hp&pagewanted=all&

The Disappeared
How the fatwa changed the life of Salman Rushdie, author of The Satanic Verses.
http://www.newyorker.com/reporting/2012/09/17/120917fa_fact_rushdie?currentPage=all&src=longreads&buffer_share=8fc12

What Happened to Diaspora, the ‘Facebook Killer’?
It’s Complicated.
http://motherboard.vice.com/2012/10/2/what-happened-to-the-facebook-killer-it-s-complicated

The kindness of beasts
Are animals capable of moral behaviour?
http://www.aeonmagazine.com/being-human/mark-rowlands-animal-morality/

Crushing Debt Drove Me to Kosovo — And Then to Iraq
A man with $90,000 in debt makes some hard decisions about his life—starting with a trip to Kosovo for an IT job.
http://thebillfold.com/2012/09/crushing-debt-drove-me-to-kosovo-and-then-to-iraq/?src=longreads

Obama’s Way
Lewis follows the president for six months—joining him for basketball pickup games, a trip on Air Force One, and inside a decision on how to handle Libya.
http://www.vanityfair.com/politics/2012/10/michael-lewis-profile-barack-obama?src=longreads

How Much Tech Can One City Take?
San Francisco struggles for its soul.
http://www.modernluxury.com/san-francisco/story/how-much-tech-can-one-city-take

Reinsurers and the God clause
On the insurer’s insurer and calculating the risk of modern catastrophe.
http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2011-09-01/sept-11-teaches-reinsurers-about-catastrophe-planning-the-god-clause-.html

Tal’s latest longreads

Professors Without Borders
How Udacity, Coursera and other online universities are changing the way we learn—and changing who has access to higher education.
http://www.prospectmagazine.co.uk/magazine/online-universities-udacity-grand-challenge-david-stavens-dave-evans/

I Used to Love Her, But I Had to Flee Her
The psychic benefits of leaving New York city.
http://gawker.com/5922392/i-used-to-love-her-but-i-had-to-flee-her-on-leaving-new-york

Hearing the Voice of God
A look at anthropologist Tanya Lurhmann, and on how it is possible for people to experience the voice of a higher being.
http://alumni.stanford.edu/get/page/magazine/article/?article_id=54818

The Audition
On a percussionist’s nerve-wracking audition for the Boston Symphony Orchestra
http://www.bostonmagazine.com/articles/2012/06/boston-symphony-orchestra-audition/print/

Into the light
After losing his sight at age 3, Michael May went on to become the first blind CIA agent, set a world record for downhill skiing, and start a successful Silicon Valley company. Then he got the chance to see again.
http://www.esquire.com/features/ESQ0605BLIND_114

Our Billionaire Philanthropists
Bill Gates and George Soros are handing out billions, but there are downsides to foundation giving.
http://www.theawl.com/2012/06/our-billionaire-philanthropists

On Seeing a Sex Surrogate
The story of a man with polio dealing with his sexual desire and his perceieved physical and romantic inadequacy.
http://noteasybeingred.tumblr.com/post/16646893808/on-seeing-a-sex-surrogate-mark-obrian

Vanishing Voices
There are roughly 7,000 languages in the world, but 78 percent of the world’s population only speaks the 85 largest languages. Thousands of languages are on the edge of disappearing.
http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2012/07/vanishing-languages/rymer-text

The Busy Trap
Almost everyone I know is busy. It’s not as if any of us wants to live like this; it’s something we collectively force one another to do.
http://opinionator.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/06/30/the-busy-trap/#

Girls Love Me
On the next Justin Bieber, 16-year-old Austin Mahone, and how pop stars are made.
http://www.texasmonthly.com/cms/printthis.php?file=feature3.php&issue=2012-06-01

The Battle Over Climate Science
Inside the increasingly hostile global warming debate. (MUST READ)
http://m.popsci.com/science/article/2012-06/battle-over-climate-change?single-page-view=true